Roma--An ancient city with an old friend

Buongiorno,

Two weeks ago, I was fortunate enough to have the opportunity to visit Rome with Amy Bednar, one of my good friends and another Miami student. Even though I only spent two days (it is about an 11 hour train ride from Geneva), I think that Rome was one of my favorite cities in Europe. The unique blend of ancient history and modernity, great food and friendly people, I think that Rome is one of the most livable cities that I have visited in Europe. In fact, I was so enchanted that I took more pictures here than I have taken anywhere else--600+ in 2 days!

What makes Rome so livable is hard to distinguish. Maybe it was the fact that Italian is so close to Spanish, a language that I miss here in Geneva. Or, maybe, it was the friendliness of the people which I had the opportunity to meet. Anyone who knows me will understand my utter fascination by ancient Roman culture. For me, visit a place like Rome was like actually living in a special on the Discovery Channel. Ok, so, now that I have revealed myself as a history nerd, I think that Rome has so many interesting facets and quirks that the city offers a completely different experience to each visitor.

Moreover, it was great to see Amy and to be able to share this experience with her. It is rare that friends can say that they have traveled to 2 countries (yes, I am counting the Vatican) together. I also enjoyed catching up with Amy...it was nice to have a few reminders of home. In actuality, I didn't realize that I was homesick until seeing Amy. Such a reunion always brings up past memories, talk of common friends, and life at Miami--things that I have not done in a long time. Yet, such an experience reaffirmed that I need to make the most of my opportunity abroad and that Miami will still be there when I return.

Learning about Rome in history class, I knew that there were so many monuments and places inside the city that I wanted to see. Fortunately for us, we were able to see all these extraordinary places. However, we almost missed St. Peter's Basilica. We arrived in Rome on Friday (Halloween) and went to the Colosseum early in the morning. After the tour (to skip the line) we also took a tour of Palentine Hill, the hill overlooking the forum and the location of many former palaces and temples. Our tour guide, probably one of the best that I have had in Europe, told us that the Basilica would be closed the following day (because it was All Saints Day), a thought that had never occurred to us. She went on to explain that here tour company was one of the only 3 allowed into the basilica the next day, so we bought tickets. Well, we then set off on a dead sprint to the Vatican Museum because we were afraid that we would miss the museum/Sistine Chapel. Luckily, everything worked out well and we had plenty of time to see both locations, in their entirety.

Apart from the whirling tour of the city, I really enjoyed the art of the city. It is nice to put the information that I learned in art history course at Miami to good use. I was amazed at just how many of the pieces of artwork that I had learned about in the class were in Rome. In addition, as a gourmand/gourmet, the food in Rome was incredible! I believe that I had gelato 4 times in 2 days. Besides that, I was able to have some of the best pizza, panini, and pasta on the planet.

I think the part of Italian culture that I found the most refreshing was their joie de vivre (joy for living). The Italians seem to know how to appreciate the fine aspects of life, not be bogged down with the seriousness of careers (or politics, as most Italians joke). It is nothing for them to spend two hours in a cafe or spending a whole evening eating food with friends and family while watching the local Roma football match. I think there is a lot of beauty in this way of living and is also a trait the Italians share with the Spanish. In today's high-paced, profit-driven world, it is very refreshing to see a culture that values taking things one day at a time and living for the simple pleasures in life.

Food first. Pasta alla carbonara and lasagna. Traditional Italian cannoli on the right.

Bruschetta with mushroom topping and Chicken saltimbocca alla Romana.

Salami panino and gelato... the first of four. My favorite flavors were frutti di bosco and lemon basil.

Santa Maria in Cosmedin church near the Circus Maximus. The Colosseo at night.

Monument to Victor Emmanuel, the first leader of a united Italy. The Castle of Saint Angelo... of Angles and Demons fame.

Next stop, orator of the Senate. Look mom, I am in two places (Italy and Vatican City) at the same time!

The beautiful interior of St. Peter's Basilica.

The ancient Pantheon (oculus included). Piazza Navona, a beautiful, open-air square in the city center.

The Spanish Steps and the Trevi Fountain at night.

One of the numerous famous pieces of artwork in the Vatican Museum... can anyone name it? Saint Peter's square at night.

The ancient Roman Forum...very impressive. The Colosseo, a must see in Rome.

Hope all is well back home. My Eurail pass expired this past weekend, but I have updates coming on Brussels, Amsterdam, Paris, and Zurich... so, look out for those. Also, now is a good time for me to buckle down as I have a few papers and finals due in the next couple weeks.

Ciao!

Love and Honor,

Matteo

Praha, the Most Beautiful City in the World

Hello everyone,

Again, the point has been driven home that I muse be leery of first impressions, especially when in a strange and new place. Prague was one of these circumstances.... My first impression was the not-so friendly, inviting, or happy Praha train station. To be honest, it was a giant wreck of metal and concrete, falling apart and run down. I took this as the first of many hints that I was in a post-Soviet country and I assumed that I would experience much of the same throughout my stay in Prague. Little did I know just how wrong I could be. The city is by far the most beautiful city that I have seen in Europe, with Paris as a close second. Having escaped the destruction of both World Wars, Prague has maintained its charm--small, winding streets, impressive medieval castles, and hauntingly beautiful cathedrals.

The Czech Republic is an interesting country. A member of EU and the Schengen Agreement, it is having trouble adapting its currency to the Euro, shifting its economy to be competitive with other EU nations, and is still trying to find its identity as a nation (as it became a state in 1993 after splitting from Slovakia). It is also a place of immense historical (King Wenceslas anyone?) and strategic importance. It if it able to successfully transition from a post-Soviet economy to a successful EU member, it will be able to serve as a model for the rest of Eastern Europe. It is also the home of Pilsner beer, named after the town of Pilsen and Budwar, the namesake of Budweiser beer. The land is truly enchanting, as were all of the Czechs that we had the opportunity to meet.

Prague, itself is a conglomeration of winding streets, large plazas, and daunting towers. It is situated along a the banks of Vltava and offers scenic views of an impressive castle from the Charles Bridge. The main square of town is just as impressive, with the towering Gothic Tyn Church and the town's astronomical clock at the base of the city hall. Around every corner is a new area to explore... the world's largest metronome, one of the largest (intact) Jewish quarters in Europe, and more towers than any tower should have. Despite the overwhelming amount of tourists (especially around key attractions), the city has a very youthful feel to it. It reminded me of a small college town, much like Oxford--lots of cheap food, bars, and students/youth all around.

The building on the left is one of the 5/6 intact synagogues left in the Jewish quarter of Prague. The food on the right is Bohemian goulash (different from Hungarian goulash) with bread dumplings and a salad with local cheese, which reminded me a lot of feta/goat cheese.

A view from one of the bridges along the Vltava River. In the picture on the right are (from l to right) me, Michelle, another MU student, Molly from the University of Idaho, and Daniel from the University of Illinois. (Michelle Fakler, please notice the goatee...)

The tower on the left is one of the guard towers of the castle. One the right is one of the gate towers to the Charles Bridge.

St. Vitus Cathedral, inside Prague Castle.

Praha's town hall along the main square and the astrological clock at the base of the tower. At the hours, the clock performed and showed statues of saints... lets just say that there was a lot of 'hoopla' for nothing.

On the right, this house on the main square is decorated with stories of Prague's history. The picture on the right shows the view of Prague Castle from the Charles Bridge.

Prague at night. The Prague Castle from the Charles Bridge. On the left is the hauntingly spooky Tyn Church--this image is something that I thought I would see in Transylvania. I don't do vampires... or scary churches.

I am headed to Brussels tomorrow (Wednesday) and then to Amsterdam on Friday night. We have meetings with NATO and the EU in Brussels so it should be a great time to learn about these major international/intergovernmental organizations.

Internship Update: I am currently helping to author an paper about the health effect of migration on those "left behind" in the process. This publication will eventually reach the WHO and I am excited that my hard work will pay off as a serious study that can make a difference in the international community. I have also really enjoyed working in such a positive working environment. I have learned so much about public health, the role of international organizations in policy making, and have seen how passionate people can be about the American Presidential Election. Overall, I cannot say enough about how positive this experience has been for me.

Hope all is well.

Love & Honor,

Matt

Berlin--One Giant Apology

Guten Tag,

I approached my first trip to Germany with a lot of excitement and apprehension. As someone with a strong German heritage (although, admittedly, I have not identified with it as much as I would like to), I was excited to see the place where my ancestors had once lived. Yet, I must admit that I feel a sense of 'German guilt' and was unsure how this would play out...especially in a city like Berlin. Well to be honest, this place truly transformed how I feel about my own heritage... and reaffirmed my identity as someone of German descent. At the same time, it provided me with a chance to examine a few key aspects of history (not only German history but world history).

At points, the trip to Berlin seemed like a tour of guilt... we saw parts of German history that no one is proud of. Berliners seem to be overly apologetic and remorseful of these aspects; at many times, they seemed to infiltrate ever aspect of life in a reunited Germany. We visited the Sachsenhausen Concentration Camp, the Stasi prison at Hohenschönhausen, the Holocaust Memorial, Holocaust Museum, the Berlin Wall (& Wall Museum), and the Berlin Unterwelten, the underground bomb shelters used during WWII and the Cold War. At some point, I began to wonder if there is much to the city except for these memories of the past. While important for all to see, I am not sure if it was good in such quick succession. Lets just say that I consumed large amounts of chocolate to keep my endorphin level high.

To be honest, I am really at a loss for words. I am not sure how to begin with emotions I felt in each one of these places. Grief? Sadness? Remorse? To be honest, I began to feel numb after awhile. I am not sure if I can truly explain or articulate what was running through my head during my trip to Berlin. Maybe after a few more weeks/months/years, I can truly comprehend what happened in these places...

The infamous 'book burning' square is on the left. On the right is the Berliner Dom, the largest church in the city. Notice the black marks from fire-bombing during WWII.

The Fernsehturm (radio tower) of Alexanderplatz... the main square of East Berlin next to one of the oldest churches in Berlin. This was shot was taken about 100 feet from our hostel. The building on the right is the Reichstag... the German Parliament building. Bombed and burned during WWII, it has been rebuilt and enhanced with the modern glass dome.

This church (whose name escapes me) was the focal point of West Berlin during the separation because the majority of the historical 'mitte' section of Berlin was in the Eastern portion of the city.

The famous Pergamon Museum in Berlin. It holds the famous bust of Nefertiti and the Ishtar Gate, which, unfortunately, was being refurbished.




Sachsenhausen Concentration Camp in Oranienburg, near Berlin. Barracks, gas ovens, and the chilling "arbeit macht frei" sign.

The Holocaust Memorial (& Museum underneath) in Berlin.

The Stasi (state police of East Germany) prison in the outskirts of Berlin. Thousands of people were imprisoned, interrogated, and kept in inhumane conditions after the division of Germany.


The indicative signs of the Berlin Wall. The upper left picture is Checkpoint Charlie--the checkpoint used by international citizens crossing from East to West. Remnants of the wall separating East and West. The Brandenburg Gate--the embodiment of a divided Germany.

Its hard to believe that one people, one city, and one person (at different times) can cause so much pain. I have yet to comprehend this level of hatred. And, I probably never will. While we say that these things will never happen again, they have, they do, and they are... right now. Genocide, torture, ethnic cleansing, and the division of people happen every day all across the globe. We all have a responsibility to stop these actions. And while Berlin (and Germany) is still trying to recover from a century of killing, hatred, and destruction, I think it shows a positive example of how to cope and come to grips with the actions of the past.

So, do I hate Berlin? No. Do I want to go back and see the positive sides of the city? Yes. I have never felt so emotionally drained in such a short time. Berlin seems to be a metropolitan city with a bright future and, again, one of great importance for the Federal German Republic... and the world. I want to see more of the country and to discover what makes Germans German. I want to travel to Munich, Frankfurt, Bremen, Freiburg, and Dortmund. But, this will have to wait for another time and another date. The only memories that I have of Germany are, unfortunately, the horrors that took place in Berlin.

Thanks for hanging in there with me. This post was about as serious as I have/will ever be. But, hopefully it has provided everyone with some food for thought.

Hope all is well back home.

Love & Honor (forever and a day),

Matt