Berne: Capital of Confederation

Guten tag/ Bonjour,

Bern, capital of the Swiss Confederation, is a bilingual city that straddles the French and German speaking sides of Switzerland. The Old Town area is really interesting as it was built on the bend of the River Aare and was the perfect location for a walled city. As a UNESCO World Heritage Site, it really has a unique feel...complete with arcades over the walkways, stone buildings, and about 14 fountains (to show off the wealth of the town). In spite of being the capital, Bern doesn't have the "official" feeling to it, like DC or Madrid. It felt like a small village (in reality, it is around 125,000) and had a very friendly, inviting atmosphere.

Even though I was only there a few hours (Berne is only about 1 hour and a half from Geneva by train), the city certainly left an impression on me. One of the big updates about the trip was that I was able to eat raclette for the first time in Switzerland. Raclette, which is probably the most wonderful idea ever, is melted Gruyere cheese over roasted potatoes, sweet pickles (gherkins), bacon, tomatoes, and pearl onions. The idea is that they bring you (base) food separately along with a machine that melts the cheese at your table. You then racler (rake) the cheese on top of the food... absolutely amazing! I wish I had a picture; however, I burned my hand on the machine and decided not to risk looking like a tourist again by taking a picture of the food.

Bern was really a fantastic city. I visited the City History Museum and Einstein Museum while there. These two museums were by far some of the best that I have seen so far in Switzerland. Also, a must see is the 3D show at the visitor center about Bern--for only one Swiss Franc, it chronicles the history of the city and was really very good. Also, I was again foiled in my search for a Swiss national soccer jersey... the only ones that I have seen so far have been really cheap quality. It might come down to actually purchasing it on the Internet, which is not preferable.

Having spent two weeks in my European Politics class covering Swiss politics, it was very interesting to see the Swiss Parliament building and the parliamentarians in person. Yes, I actually was able to see parliamentarians... or at least I think so. The only one that I recognized was the former president of the Swiss Confederation, Micheline Calmy-Rey. For those of you who know little about the Swiss Government, the idea is for their leaders to not stick out and so most of the Swiss people couldn't recognize the president if he was standing in front of them. Most paliamentarians hold other jobs, only work 12 weeks of the year, and use public transportation. In addition, their pay is minimal and most do not have staff. The Swiss rule by consensus, hoping that all levels of government reach an agreeable compromise. Also, a large chunk of power is given to the individual cantons (hence the confederation idea) and to the people (they have the power of referendum and popular initiative at all levels). This all leads to a very slow process.

Now that you have had a history lesson, it is amazing how Switzerland has remained a nation for so long. In a day and age where separatist movements and people are fighting for self-determination (like South Ossetia, Kosovo, and even Belgium with the Walloons and the Flemish), it is amazing to see such a diverse country remain unified. Switzerland has 4 official languages, covers many diverse cantons and regions, and is a nation where 20% of the people living here are migrants (a category that I am contributing to as well). Yet, for the good of the people, the Swiss have been able to remain together and united.

Munster Church, the large cathedral that dominates the Berne skyline.

These pictures show the peninsula that the River Aare forms around the old city. It is a very interesting layout.

Berne, takes its name from the creature above... the bear. However, do not get to excited, the Bern bear pits were very depressing... worse than the zoo. The bears were trained to walk around... this one even sat down and waived at the crowd.


To show of the wealth of the city (yes, the banks make the Swiss beaucoup d'argent), the city commissioned 13 fountains to be built in the downtown area. These two are my favorites... the Bernese Musketman on the left and Justice on the right.


So, I said that the old town has lots of arcades lining the streets. Those of you who don't study architecture were probably thinking of video arcades? Nope, these overhangs are arcades and they create a very nice place to walk when it rains. This style of covering is different from any of the other cities that I have seen so far in Europe.

The Zytglogge in Old Town. This clock has been running for over 500 years and is one of the most popular sights in Berne. The tower used to be the entrance gate of the old city wall.

This the the Parliament Building (Bundeshaus), seat of the Swiss government. In my mind, it is distinctly Swiss--complete with the Swiss crosses, Helvetia (the embodiment of the Swiss State) and Justice. It has a very prominent place in the city and provides great views of the city from its terrace on the back side.

Looking up the street from one of the fountains to the Zytglogge. Few cars are allowed which creates an "old world" feeling.

This is the view from the University of Berne, overlooking the city. Notice the Alps in the back of the picture. Now imagine waking up and seeing these mountains everyday. Welcome to Switzerland.

That is all I have for now. Sorry for the delay but this week is our midterm week. I still have one last post to catch up on--Zurich. But that will have to be saved for another time.

I leave tomorrow night (Thursday) for Vienna, then to Berlin on Sunday for our break week, and then then to Prague next Thursday afternoon. That should provide a lot of pictures and stories to share when I get back.

As always, you all have my email. Keep me updated. Hope all is well wherever you may be.

Love & Honor,

Matt